Upon first glance at the collection, my eye went to the little bags with the hanging tassles. Part bohemian, part biker chic, very French. But when I sat down to really admire the collection for what it was, there was probably only one item that really kept pervading my mind: dammmmnnn, that is one great leather jacket. There must have been about five or six in total, and each one has a distinctive shape that gives Rick Owens a run for his money. It's not sleek, drapey and deconstructed the way Owens usually does it --- Theysken's jackets each have their own character. New leather jacket proportions include emphasis on big shoulders and sleeves (the big eighties comeback this Fall), waist-length, ruffled, bishoped....everything! Theyskens paired these jackets with slinky minis, tightsuits, and baggy, harem-style, 70's pants. The finishing touch on the runway: the exaggerated platform shoe. Dark and romantic, when combined together, the models all look like gorgeous hunchback darlings that are born too tall to fit in a small room on top of the gothic tower.
And can you imagine how much money is going to roll in the bank when a designer creates one great staple item in a collection that is still commercial but artistically exclusive? Shame on Ricci's CEO. I will sincerely miss the collaboration between Nina Ricci and Theyskens, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.
photos from Style.com