Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Ode to Theyskens: Here's to the beautiful gothic motorcycle jacket.

It seems like such a shame that even someone such as Olivier Theyskens cannot guarantee job security in a house which you would presume, have great vision to support Theysken's own. I'm sure everyone's heard of Nina Ricci's Fall/Winter '09 collection being one of the best the runways has seen this season, and I often don't advocate following runway reviews by high-powered commercial machines, but it's hard to deny how absolutely innovative Theysken's last swan song was.

Upon first glance at the collection, my eye went to the little bags with the hanging tassles. Part bohemian, part biker chic, very French. But when I sat down to really admire the collection for what it was, there was probably only one item that really kept pervading my mind: dammmmnnn, that is one great leather jacket. There must have been about five or six in total, and each one has a distinctive shape that gives Rick Owens a run for his money. It's not sleek, drapey and deconstructed the way Owens usually does it --- Theysken's jackets each have their own character. New leather jacket proportions include emphasis on big shoulders and sleeves (the big eighties comeback this Fall), waist-length, ruffled, bishoped....everything! Theyskens paired these jackets with slinky minis, tightsuits, and baggy, harem-style, 70's pants. The finishing touch on the runway: the exaggerated platform shoe. Dark and romantic, when combined together, the models all look like gorgeous hunchback darlings that are born too tall to fit in a small room on top of the gothic tower.

And can you imagine how much money is going to roll in the bank when a designer creates one great staple item in a collection that is still commercial but artistically exclusive? Shame on Ricci's CEO. I will sincerely miss the collaboration between Nina Ricci and Theyskens, and I'm sure I'm not the only one.

photos from Style.com

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